Tuesday July 25, 2023 Most Recent Posts:
Moose River Campground Time Goes By From Devil’s to Martin’s
St Johnsbury Vermont Devil’s Hill Trail
Moose River Campground is very close to New Hampshire. The state line is maybe 5 miles from here Today I’m going over to Crawford’s Notch, a major
pass through the White Mountains.
The Crawford’s Notch Depot was built in 1891. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is now a Visitor’s Center run by the Appalachian Mountain Club as well as the northern terminus of Notch Train Service of the Conway Scenic Railroad. The building is Queen Anne and lovely. I’d love to take the 4-5 hour train through the mountains from North Conway to here though I’m not sure I’ll manage to actually do it.
Today, I’m hiking. There are tons of trails in Crawford Notch in New Hampshire. I want to see Arethusa Falls “regarded by many as the best scenic waterfall in New Hampshire”. There is a debate about how tall it is. I’ve read it is 140’, 160’ and even 200’. Tall is what I am expecting.
As the map shows, you can take the Arethusa Falls trail straight up or you can cut off to the left of that trail in .1 mile and take the Bemis Brook trail for a few more waterfalls. No one mentioned how narrow and washed out and rooty the Bemis Brook Trail was. But I don’t think any of the reviews I read was done this year after all this rain. I would never want small children on this trail. I think the reviews saying it was a family hike are crazy
Since this is a hike in the White Mountains that means lots of rocks and gnarly tree roots as you can see in this picture at the trailhead.
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The Bemis Brook trail goes along the brook and has views of Fawn Pool, Coliseum Falls and Brook Falls as well as smaller cascades.
To see Fawn Pool I walked down here and up the rock face in the next picture.
The trail began to climb and got narrower and narrower with no fewer roots or rocks. I just don’t see this as a family hike unless you are talking about much older children.
Here’s where the trail is right on the edge. The ground slopes down sharply on the left.
And here.
I felt like I was walking on the side of the mountain and would not have wanted to be without a hiking pole.
I finally made it to Bemis Falls.
Bemis is a very lovely series of cascades.
And then it’s back on the trail over to join the Arethusa Falls Trail to the big falls. Here things were no longer on the edge of the cliff but to say the terrain was difficult is an understatement and the climb was even steeper. I heard some folks without hiking poles later say they had to use all 4 limbs to get up some sections here.
Have you ever seen a trail like this? That yellow paint stripe is the trail marker. This was such a steep and rocky trail that without the yellow markers I would never have believed this was the trail.
This is about as easy as it got. Sort of steps.
And of course no trail in rainy Vermont is without a lot of mud. Here luckily there are boards.
My first sight on Arethusa Falls. I hadn’t run into anyone on the trail up. I guess those who were here when I arrived all knew to come straight up the Arethusa Falls Trail and skip Bemis Brook.
As I said I don’t see how Bemis can be a “family hike” but I’m glad I did it at least once to see the other water features.
Partially zoomed in for a better look. I’m thinking New Hampshire has not had the same amount of rain as Vermont judging from the amount of water coming down from the head waters of Bemis Brook. Notice the size of the people on the rocks below to judge the size of the waterfall for yourself.
I took this picture as I was preparing to figure out how to work my way closer to the falls over all these rocks when I heard a large group of people behind me and up came at least 25 middle schoolers from a girls camp.
They literally swarmed all over everywhere. And shortly after them came another similar group and then another. 3 groups in all. It felt like an invasion. I gave up my idea of going closer to experience the falls and thought I could perhaps wait them out and then go. I am known for my patience in waiting out other hikers at waterfalls.
Here’s the not so hot selfie to prove I was here. I waited quite a while but they stayed to play, swim and have lunch. I gave up on my desire to have some quiet time with the falls. Guess I’ll have to come back but when to come if swarms of campers show up on a Tuesday.
One last zoom cutting out all the people.
And finally for fungi lovers like me, here is some of what I saw while I was carefully watching my feet. Click any photo to make it larger.
Boy does this post look terrible on a cell phone as opposed to a laptop or tablet.
ReplyDeleteIt looks fine Sherry, it's quite the hike. I haven't seen one that rough since we went to one in upper Michigan about 4 or 5 years ago. The falls are bigger than I would've thought until the people gave it proper perspective for me, so maybe it was just meant to be...
ReplyDeleteIt's the formatting that's completely lost on a cell phone. It just looks so much better on a tablet or laptop. Glad you liked it anyway. Are you melting down there?
DeleteThese days, with my leg thingy, I could no more do that hike. Makes me a bit sad, but delighted that I could follow along with you to the falls. Mo and I had a similar experience kayaking once. Getting ready to do my embarassing kayak exit, all alone at Malone Springs, suddenly several trucks carrying loaded trailers filled with kayaks drove in to the quiet little launch. Lots and lots of people. It was so frustrating after our quiet time on the river, but we were really glad we were exiting and not beginning that trip. Cannot imagine kayaking Recreation Creek with dozens of other people screaming and yelling and all that goes with it. Sometimes you get lucky other times not so much. But the mushrooms were cute and the falls were gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteThanks Sue I'm glad you enjoyed the mushrooms and the falls and I'm really happy I could take you along. I wish I could have out waited the campers but they seemed to be there for the entire afternoon.
DeleteThat looked like a great trail for kids. Old farts like me? Not so much! ;c)
ReplyDeleteOld?? Wish I knew who was calling themselves old. I'm pretty sure those kids didn't come up the Bemis trail like I did. They came straight up the Arethusa Falls trail which is how I went back. But camp adults would not have wanted to be responsible for the potential problems on the Bemis trail with 75 campers.
DeleteGood heavens. Until you wrote about the yellow blazes, I was wondering how you even knew what was trail and what was wilderness. I admire your tenacity to stick with it. The pictures of beautiful, though, and I do love a beautiful waterfall. Thank you for sharing!
ReplyDeleteYou are so welcome Pam and thank you so much for commenting and letting me know what you thought.
DeleteHoly treacherous trail, Batman! The rock and roots were bad enough but the cliff you could fall off of on the left was scary even in the photo I went camping in Washing state with Die and Eric. We were trying to get down to the water on this very steep bank covered in shale. As we were climbing, the shale was sliding down I panicked and just got stuck in one spot. The falls are lovely! They weren't kidding when they wrote that Arthusa Falls were tall! It's too bad that hoards of people ruined what, otherwise, would have been a quiet hike. I like the orange and the yellow mushrooms. xxxooo
ReplyDeleteThe first four words of your comment made me laugh out loud. So so funny. Thank you. Perfect Batman's Robin alliteration. The Falls were very tall but not as full as I expected them to be given the rain that Vermont has had but then this is New Hampshire.
DeleteYikes! Scary trail, definitely have to pay attention. What a tall waterfall!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comment Laurie.
DeleteI sympathize with your experience. After sharing a postage stamp size summit with lunching summer campers who completely ignored the view, and then being swarmed by descending summer campers on a steep wet rocky trail (e.g. a rock fall), I resolved to never hike to popular destinations or on easily accessible trails during summer camp season in the White Mountains. Yes, there are some trails in New Hampshire/Maine that are ghastly for hiking!
ReplyDeleteI had no idea to beware of "summer camp season". Is that the entire month of August? Sorry blogger made you anonymous. I appreciate the advice.
DeleteI'm not aware of any definitive dates for "summer camp season". It probably is determined by when the camps close and when school starts where they live. I usually go to the Whites to hike in late August and September. No bugs, no kids, and it is cooler. If I go in early August or July, I hike at out-of-way trails or trails with limited parking (for the campers' transportation). I have hiked with campers who were very sweet and enjoyable, so it is definitively a matter of chance.
DeleteSue, I haven't had any bugs pretty much the whole summer. Only every once in awhile. Would love to know some of your out of the way trails or trails with limited parking. Where did you go in Vermont?
DeleteWhat a trail! There's no way I would take small kids on that one! The falls are very pretty. I was expecting more water coming down, given all the rains. I bet it sounded very nice despite the loads of summer campers. Maybe next time you could just take the Falls trail and get time with it alone.
ReplyDeleteI was expecting more water too but perhaps New Hampshire hasn't had the rains of Vermont. Definitely will take the Falls trail next time though it really isn't as interesting.
DeleteThat was one treacherous hike! The mountainside would be a definite no-go for me! But I'm glad you did it so I could see the pretty cascades at Bemis. Prettier I think than the tall "falls" at the top. For me falls must be free falling, while running down rocks are cascades. I'm never sure which I like better :-) Lovely for sure but bummer the hordes arrived during your visit. Glad you had a smoother option for the return. I was sad to see that Cabot Cheese is now closed to the public, but maybe the little women-owned kitchen at the back of the hardware store is still open in Cabot - it's a tasty and fun stop.
ReplyDeleteThe Bemis part definitely was difficult but prettier than the trail straight to the tall falls.
DeleteThat does look like a rough hike.
ReplyDeleteDoesn't even look like trails. Nice waterfalls, but no thanks to all those rocks and roots.
ReplyDeleteWe went there from our Dolly Copp Campground in NH while we were there. We went to Mt. Washington via the Cog Railroad in the morning and on the same road was the trailhead for the falls. Our hike was not nearly as difficult. We really liked the falls but there were a lot of people and I couldn't get a good unobstructed picture either. There was another trailhead for Ripley Falls not far down the road. I thought about going there but it was getting late.
ReplyDelete