Santa Fe River Sink and River Rise

March 14 – March 26, 2023                    Two Weeks at O’Leno State Park
O’Leno State Park                                       Mornings on the Rainbow River
Site 19
High Springs, Florida

River Sink to River Rise

I only went to River Sink once on this trip to O’Leno and that’s a shame because it’s a lovely spot.  I had intended to kayak up the Santa Fe to River Rise from the High Springs boat put in but I ran out of opportunity to do it.  I prefer early mornings for kayaking so that I can have the water to myself but on far too many days, it was in the upper 30’s.

On this map you will see River Rise near the bottom of the map but at the top of the blue dotted trail that is the Santa Fe River.  The River goes on south from River Rise to join the Ichetucktnee.

River Sink I saw many many times.  On the map, at the top it is at the end of the blue dotted line that indicates the Santa Fe river coming into O’Leno State Park from its headwaters on Lake Santa Fe 44 miles north of this spot. 

First a look at River Sink. 

Hiking the River Trail is something I do nearly every day.

From the campground, I hike to this spot on the river and then follow the river west to the sink.

The path on the right of the picture above is a put in for kayaks and canoes who wish to go east on the Sante Fe.  But walking along the river on the river trail will show you that you cannot go very far before the river is blocked with fallen trees or is too shallow and will require portage.  In two weeks, I saw only one person paddling there.  I wish I had been at the put in when he got back to ask him about his experience.  I chose not to go to the trouble of bringing my kayak on wheels from the campground down for the possibility.

From here I can see the CCC suspension bridge.  Everyone loves this bridge.  It is a huge draw for the park.

I walk along the fishing dock which comes next   There is a small swimming area just to its left.  No one has been swimming these two weeks that I’ve seen but then I’m not here mid afternoon.  Judging from the rows of seats, there must be a lot of people in the summer.

Just out of view to the right in this picture of the CCC suspension bridge is the sign showing it is closed.  I’ll have a picture of that and more about it later on the other side.  Normally you could walk across the Santa Fe on the suspension bridge which has been here for nearly 90 years.

The trail goes on along the side of the river bank.

The beautiful Wild Azalea is in bloom.

Others like the Wild Azalea too. 

There is no kayaking between the boat launch under the bridge  to River Sink.

The river does seem to end here at River Sink.  It looks just like a dead end cul-de-sac street.

Turtles don’t seem to mind being covered by the algae that builds up on the surface as the water slowly goes “down the drain” on its way to River Rise.

The sink looks different each time I hike by.  Sometimes there are beautiful designs.

As I mentioned, I have walked the River Sink Trail many times.

In years past, I have even seen it with almost no algae.  But I do love the beautiful designs as though the surface were painted.

Other times the algae extends far up the river but always the river sinks.

On to the Land Bridge

Once past the sink,  I am on the land bridge.  I pass a trio of sink holes and bridges over the ravines.

Some bridges are short.

Others very long.

From the sink, the Santa Fe River goes underground for over 3 miles within O’Leno State Park. This is the land bridge.  The old Bellamy Road, Florida’s first federal highway, crosses this natural bridge.  That’s where I was in my last post, link above.

 

To hike directly from River Sink to River Rise over the land bridge is 4.7 miles one way and you must take a trail off of the River Trail headed further west.  David and I hiked this each time we came to O’Leno and were usually rewarded by having the gorgeous River Rise all to ourselves.  But I am not up for nearly 10 miles.  I am going to River Rise down the Bellamy Road AGAIN and try to get it right this time.  More on that later.

I am so lucky to be here at the right time to see the Wild Azalea blooming along the trail.

Lucky again that the fringe bush is in bloom.  They have a sweet lilac-like smell.

So delicate.

A piece of the  Paraners Branch Loop Trail, also in  my previous post above,  goes off from the River Trail and heads west where it will connect with another trail going to River Rise.  This is the 4.7 mile hike I mentioned.   I pass on by and soon a curve in the trail has me coming up the other side of the river as it flows into the park.   This picture was taken looking behind me.  The river is actually on my right now. I am in the section I “could” kayak.  Looks good here but closer to the boat launch on the other side, not so much.

Another short distance and I’ve arrived at the other side of the Suspension Bridge which I mentioned earlier is closed aggravatingly. 

At this point most folks may go a little further but the trail appears to disappear so they turn around and go back the way they came since they can no longer, since last August I understand, cross the wonderful bridge. 

Rumor has it that a tree fell on the bridge which appears to have no damage  at all but must be inspected for safety by a structural engineer which apparently the state has been unable to provide for 8 months and counting.

Says Bridge Closed ……DUH!

I look from every angle.  The boards, the cable all look fine to me.

But I’m not a structural engineer, so what do I know.  Other than I’m really disappointed.

Even when the bridge was open, I would walk across it and then back since walking around and crossing the bridge to return would be too short a hike.  But I love being on the bridge.

I walk further along this “other side” of the  river toward the sink.  I am really dreading the day I come and find this great old tree with so many beautiful exposed roots has no longer been able to hold on.  Doesn’t it really look like it is clutching the earth with its fingers.  As we all are actually though many don’t realize it.

The trail does appear to end at this point and you find yourself in this bottom land of weeds and cypress knees.

It’s a completely magical place which I am sure is under water when it rains.

It always fools me the first time I come in and cannot find the trail out the other side and have to go back to the bridge and retrace my entire route.

But by my second visit I remember the lake/sink hole and know the trail out on the opposite side is just to its left.

So I smile and off I go to finish my hike on the River Trail.

Now to River Rise.

Since I have already taken you down the Old Bellamy Road in my previous post about my first attempt to hike to River Rise and talked about the history of that more than 200 year old federal road, I won’t repeat myself.   Last time, I turned off the road too soon having an inadequate map and ended up going in a circle.

This time, no such mistake.  This time I go farther down the Old Bellamy Road to ultimately reach the turn with a sign telling me I have only 1.4 miles to go to the Rise.

.Wonder why the 1 is so much more faded than the .4?

I pass Sweetwater Lake which is part of the Old Bellamy Cave System.  Not sure what’s the difference in terminology here.  Is this a sink hole and/or a lake?  I know that the entire river system under the land bridge has been explored.  No thanks, not me under there with a breathing tank.

Behind me is a fire circle for what I assume is a hike in camp site.     What a lovely place to spend the night if you are a backpacker.

I know most folks think of these thistle as weeds but they are so beautiful and both butterflies and hummingbirds love them.

As I approach the River rise there is are very informative signs telling all about the Santa Fe River and showing the absolutely amazing number of springs along it and explaining why they are there.

As I’ve mentioned before the Santa Fe River originates in Lake Santa Fe and flows 72 miles to ultimately join the Suwannee River and on to the Gulf of Mexico. 

There is a big difference between the “upper” Santa Fe, above River Sink and the Lower Santa Fe, below River Rise.  The upper Santa Fe flows through a region of wet pine forests and swamps where there is an underlying layer of impenetrable clay (the bane of southern gardeners north to Virginia-ask me how I know). Tannins from the decaying swamp vegetation stain the water the color of tea.

As the river flows westward, the land becomes dry plain.  No clay.  The rainwater sinks quickly through the sandy soil into the porous limestone bedrock and flows underground to the river.  The many sinkholes, and springs are formed by this naturally acidic rainwater.

There are more than 75 springs that feed the Lower Santa Fe River.  Spring water comes from the Florida aquifer, is filtered by limestone and is remarkably clear.  During periods of low rainfall, flow in the upper river decreases and the spring water predominates making the river very clear..  During rainy periods tannin stained water pours out of the Upper Santa Fe swamps and the entire river turns brown. 

There is a map of the entire lower Santa Fe to and including the Ichetucknee to the Suwanee showing all of the Springs, Lakes, Rises, Swallets along the way.  But it is too large to include here in any meaningful way.   This piece of the map shows the section between River Sink and beyond River Rise.  Notice Sweetwater Lake.

River Rise

After two tries I have arrived at River Rise.  There are steps down to the shore line of the reappearing Santa Fe river. 

The rest of the pictures were taken from the shore.

I’m not the only one enjoying the Rise.

At this point the river is fully contained within River Rise State Park so there is vegetation on all sides.

I believe the actual “rise” of water comes from the far left just beyond the Cypress Tree.

I move closer.

And closer.

I’m betting on this carved out area in the far corner.

Next time I’ll kayak right up this river from the High Springs Dock to this spot, paddle over there and see if I can tell for sure.