Wandering Taos Part 2: Mable Dodge Luhan

May 15, Thursday                                              Most Recent Posts:
Taos Valley RV Park                                         Wandering Taos Part 1: The Plaza
Taos, New Mexico                                             Welcome to Taos

My last post ended with a mural I saw on my way up Kit Carson Street.  I left the Plaza, crossed Paseo Del Pueblo Sur (Taos’ main street) and continued from North Plaza on to Kit Carson.  I walked up one side figuring I’d do the other on my way back.   I was headed to the Mable Dodge Luhan House.  More on that later.

I passed by the Kit Carson House and Museum.  I’m not a big fan of Kit Carson whose role in the forced removal of Navajo people and other contributions to the displacement and suffering of Native American peoples as a scout and Indian agent is quite distasteful to me.  So I skipped the house for now though I thought I might like to come back later just to see the historic building.

The traditional adobe dwelling was built in 1825 and became the Carson home in 1843 when he married Maria Josefa Jaramillo a member of a prominent Taos family.  At that time Taos was still part of Mexico.  They lived in the 3 room house for 25 years.  The house has been operated as a museum since the early 1950’s and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1963.  Currently it is in fragile condition and at risk of catastrophic collapse according to the signs I read.  Not sure where renovation funds are coming from.

This looks larger than 3 rooms but I guess I’d have to go inside to find out the story.

On down the street the buildings were nearly all adobe with fabulous doors.

About half a mile down I turned left on Morada Lane toward the Mabel Dodge Luhan House.  There were those snow capped mountains in the background again.  I just love that you can see them from nearly anywhere.

 

I first learned of the Mabel Dodge Luhan House as much as 40 years ago when I was a fan of Natalie Goldberg author of Writing Down the Bones.  I spent several years trying to figure out how I could afford to fly out and attend a workshop with her here

I never did manage it unfortunately but I was on my way to at least see the place finally.

About a mile down the road I came to the gate.

Mabel was an American Art patron and salon hostess in the early 20th century.  She hosted salons in Florence Italy and Greenwich Village New York which attracted leading intellectuals, writers, and artists.   I can’t even say how much I would have loved to be a fly on the wall.

In 1917 she moved to Taos and married Tony Luhan a Tiwa Indian from Taos Pueblo.  She played a crucial role in bringing prominent figures, like Georgia O’Keeffe, D.H. Lawrence, Willa Cather, Martha Graham and Ansel Adams to visit her.  Many of them returned to live in Taos.   After her death in 1962, her home where she hosted the prominent artists and writers was designated a National Historic Landmark and operates now as an inn and conference center.

Unfortunately for me, there was a Yoga retreat happening and the buildings were not open to the public.   I found out later that they ask that you call ahead to visit so you don’t run in to situations like this.  I should have checked before walking up here.  When I belatedly did check the schedule I saw that this place is VERY busy with programs all year long.  It is often open to the public but when I called while I was there, I was told that I would need to come back early next week.   Boy was I disappointed.

 

Loved these whimsical touches.  You can see them in the picture above if you look closely.

I did walk around the grounds a bit surreptitiously but I wasn’t willing to go in the buildings and try to pass myself off as a participant.  Thus I couldn’t really tell which is her house and which are property buildings turned into other uses.  The dormitories are obvious and I assume were not here during Luhan’s ownership.

Not being able to experience all of this place I had been wanting to come to for years was my one big disappointment in my visit to Taos.  I just was not able to get back here when it was open to tourists.

Headed back to Taos down the long driveway.  Glad I came, sorry I didn’t check to see when I should have come.  Hopefully a lesson learned.

On my way back down the other side of Kit Carson Street to the Plaza.  Love this gate.

Looking through to the private residence.

Now at some remove from these pictures I wonder if nearly every building was trimmed in this shade of blue or if I just love it and those were the buildings I photographed.

I was never quite sure whether the open gates led into someone's private property or to a commercial establishment.  But here I followed a couple of people in and found an artist’s studio on the right and a wild garden on the left.

It was a wonderful quiet oasis.

I was reluctant to head back out through the opening to the street.  I could see from here the age of the complex, walls, ceilings and floors.

Ed Sandoval is a well known local artist.  I loved his red dutch door.

This part of Kit Carson Street reminds me of a western town with covered sidewalks.

I crossed back over Paseo Del Pueblo Sur (Taos’ main street) running the full length of the town from my rv park on the far end all the way to the Pueblo on the other.  Couldn’t resist another snow capped Sangre De Christo Mountains shot.

This time I cut over to historic Bent Street to walk back to my car.   Bent Street is located just north of Taos plaza and was named for Charles Bent appointed governor of New Mexico Territory in 1846.  The governor's appointment angered those who resented anglo governance over the Hispanic and Native American territory.  Bent was killed by Pueblo Warriors during the Taos revolt in January 19 1847.  

Today the street is a collection of charming mixed-cultural shops, galleries and eateries.  Park-like, coffee, art and music-filled places to just “hang out.   

More great doors.

I’ll close with Winnona’s view of the mountains.

Tomorrow I am headed to one of my most anticipated visits while here in Taos.  I’m visiting Ghost Ranch not far from Abiquiu and about 73 miles from here but as close as I get on this trip.  It’s a don’t miss stop for me.  Wish Jodee were here.