Saturday, August 23, 2025

The Rest of my Day at Ghost Ranch

Friday May 16, 2025                                            Most Recent Posts:
Ghost Ranch                                           Georgia O’Keeffe’s Ghost Ranch Home
Abiquiu, New Mexico              Wandering Taos Part 2:  Mable Dodge Luhan




Back tracking to when I first arrived at Ghost Ranch for my wonderful tour.  Link to that post is the first one above.

Here is the entrance.


PXL_20250516_143522856.MP



These were my first looks at this absolutely amazing setting.  No wonder O’Keeffe rented a cottage and then bought a home here.  I would too if I could.


PXL_20250516_143730552.MP



You can barely see the buildings of Ghost Ranch in front of the amazing backdrop.


PXL_20250516_143738576.MP



PXL_20250516_152258848.MP




PXL_20250516_143857169.MP




IMG_7651I parked right in front of the main building and took the wide sidewalk up the stairs  to check in for the tour described in the previous post. 

After it was over and I had time, I went back inside and watched the excellent  video, about the ranch its history and connection to O’Keeffe, while I ate the lunch I had brought with me.



IMG_7664On the veranda outside is this information board which most folks glance at and I read every word.  It does a fabulous job of the entire history of ghost ranch in a small space.   Here’s what I learned.

The known history of the Ghost Ranch land goes back to 6000 BCE but this specific spot history sort of begins in 1876 when the Archuleta Brothers homestead here.  They build what was known as the Ghost House.   They spread rumors about it being haunted to keep others away and unaware of their cattle rustling using the name El Ranch de los Brujos (witches).

In 1903  the brothers were hung from trees by the house for cattle thieving and the land was bought by lawyers for back taxes. 

In 1928 a new owner Richard Pfaffe, who allegedly won the land in a poker game, named it Ghost Ranch.  He opens it as a dude ranch in 1929, the same year Georgia O’Keeffe first visits Mable Dodge Luhan beginning her love affair with New Mexico.

In 1933 Arthur Pack buys 390 acres and builds a home which ultimately he sells in 1940 to Georgia who first visited Ghost Ranch in 1934 renting, for several years, the cottage that now bears her name.  In 1935 Pack buys an additional 16000 acres.   By 1936 the dude ranch, now run by Pack, can house 20 people paying $8o a week.   Oh for the good old days.   

In 1955 Pack donated all of Ghost Ranch to the Board of Education of the Presbyterian Church of America.  There is a great deal more history in the development of Ghost Ranch to what it is today.  The only further things I will  mention are:
In 1971, Georgia O’Keeffe suggests to Ghost Ranch Director Jim Hall that the ranch use her skull motif on summer programs and the motif is adopted as the Ghost Ranch logo.

In 1983 a fire destroyed the headquarters office and Georgia O’Keeffe donated $50,000 and use of her name in fundraising for its replacement.  In 2006 the Presbyterian Church announced it would no longer financially support the operating budget of the center.  In 2015 a flash flood caused over $500,000 worth of damage.  Many buildings were lost.  

Ghost Ranch has served as a movie location, it is a significant paleontological and anthropological site, with on-site museums and fossil quarries. The Ghost Ranch property has a remarkable concentration of fossils, most notably that of the theropod dinosaur Coelophysis, of which it has been estimated that nearly a thousand individuals have been preserved in a quarry at Ghost Ranch.

Since 1955, the 21000 acres of Ghost Ranch are owned by the Presbyterian Church of America.  Like the Mable Dodge Luhan House, it too is an education, conference and  retreat center albeit MUCH larger.

From there I started exploring this history.  As I left, I saw a much larger group of 12 or 15 getting into a Ghost Ranch van for a tour.  I’m assuming this was one of the other tours since few people want to do a three mile hike.  But I was smiling about the smaller size of our group.


I walked by the cabin O’Keeffe rented that I talked about above and in the previous post.  What a wonderful setting.

IMG_7665



Ghost House, also mentioned previously,  and its courtyard was built in the 1890’s by the Archuleta Brothers.  It was the only residence in the canyon and the headquarters for the infamous cattle rustling operation.   Now one room is available to view and the others are rented out.




IMG_7678



Doesn’t this look great!  Love those little windows and the adobe bench

IMG_7679



The door beside the bench is the open guest room.  The others are rentals and someone actually came into the room on the far right while I was there.   Later on there is a picture of the view from this window.


IMG_7680



Inside, on the walls were photos showing Ghost Ranch in the 1930’s when it was a Dude Ranch owned and operated by the Packs who first rented to O’Keeffe.  The photos were used in a promotional booklet sent to prospective guests who might want to experience “the wild west”.






IMG_7692



This all adobe structure is the only two story adobe building on the ranch.  It was build for the Robert Wood Johnson Family (Johnson & Johnson fame) in 1935.  They were old friends of the Packs from New Jersey.  Today the building is known as Cottonwood and houses the Ghost Ranch Library and two guest rooms upstairs.





Here’s the interior I saw today.   You can see the pictures of the 30’s on the walls.  Not sure why you’d want a table this large since there is no kitchen and Ghost Ranch is no where near anything remotely resembling “take out”.    The next picture is from the room you can see into beyond.


IMG_7684


I love these corner fireplaces.  O’Keeffe put them in her Abiquiu Home and I’m betting in her home here at Ghost Ranch.  You can bet I’ll be back when they open that to the public.

IMG_7694



The view out the window that I mentioned previously.


Those of you who read my post about O’Keeffe’s Abiquiu  home will recognize that she may well have taken this great idea from Ghost Ranch and used it in restoring that run down hacienda.   I absolutely love these recesses in the walls.  Neither of the pictures I took was sharp enough but I wanted to remember this so it will hve to do.





Leave the Ghost Ranch patio I see Pedernal as ever on the horizon.

IMG_7698





I passed the dining hall, a non descript adobe building for overnight guests but not day visitors, and  Agape Spiritual Center, which I returned to on my way back.  I anxious to walk the labyrinth before it got too hot.

Along the way, I passed what I believe is known as a Zen Garden complete with rake leaning against the piece of wood on the left.



I spent a wonderful pensive time walking the lovely Chartres style outdoor labyrinth with such gorgeous scenery around it.    I could definitely do this once a day if I lived her.


IMG_7712



Further along I found a Medicine Wheel




This building also appeared to be accommodations of some sort or perhaps a gathering or teaching space.  It’s a distance from here to the main building and dining hall.   I loved the bench and how the building fits right “under” the rock background.

IMG_7723

 


I was on my way to check out the campground when I came upon these rustic cottages.  I thought they were great.  There was one person sitting on a porch.  There is a variety of accommodations at Ghost Ranch which can host quite a few people at one time.  It was certainly not crowded on this day or everyone was busy doing whatever they had come to do.


IMG_7724



IMG_7726



The campground was small and also rustic.  I heard they have some hook ups, not sure what as it unfortunately didn’t seem like a spot I could bring Winnona to.  I might look into this more in the future.  At this point my energy is beginning to wane.  I’m at 8 miles and counting.

IMG_7727



It was nearing 6pm but I did want to look around the Agape Center which is used for a variety of purposes including weddings.  Yes you can get married at Ghost Ranch.

IMG_7728





When I arrived there was a small group just leaving some sort of sit on the ground gathering in the courtyard.  Might have been right down my alley.

IMG_7703



There was a large room off to the left with huge windows looking out to Pedernal but there was a group meeting in there so I didn’t go in. 




Bells seemed to be popular and definitely picturesque.

IMG_7733



From there as my energy flagged even more and I realized I had a 90 minute drive back to Winnona,  I made a quick trip through the Anthropology Museum knowing I would have to return to do it justice.

The painting here is of the Coelophysis whose bones were discovered in a quarry on the property in 1947.  The 2nd museum is dedicated to it and Paleontology. 


IMG_7734



My quick trip through the Anthropology museum showed some lovely Native American Pottery and other works of art from the surrounding area shown on this wonderful map.  Ghost ranch is in the middle near the top by the Apache Reservation.





 

I am already imagining a return visit for a program, I saw a 5 day birding program listed.  That would be wonderful.   Or at least an overnight or two or three, to hike the numerous interesting looking trails some with views I would love to have seen.  I also did not have time  this time to give both museums the attention they deserve.   How many days would all of this take??


But I wasn’t finished quite yet.  Just to the side on the drive out to the highway, I saw the City Slickers Cabin I had glimpsed on my way in and thought I still had enough energy to look around.


PXL_20250516_214250476.MP



PXL_20250516_214445614.MPThe cabin and corral are what remain from a movie set for City Slickers (1991). 

The original set appears about 25 min into the movie and had two cabins, a two story barn and corrals.  This location is still used by film companies and for advertising.

I read on the information board from which I got this information that Ghost Ranch offers a Movie Site Tour that includes this and other movie sites at Ghost Ranch.  I didn’t see it when I looked at the tours they were offering.


PXL_20250516_214456243.MP


I bid a reluctant farewell to Ghost Ranch.

When I arrived this morning, I was too busy making sure I could find where I was going and get there on time to notice the magnificence around me but I was in awe on my return to Winnona.

This is the highway leading to the Ghost Ranch entrance.

PXL_20250516_143131493.MP



PXL_20250516_143142871.MP



PXL_20250516_143145829.MP



PXL_20250516_143149285.MP


I know, enough all ready.  You can see how totally enamored I am with Georgia O’Keeffe and Ghost Ranch.  But that’s the end . . . . at least for this year. 

Next up is Taos Farmer’s Market and the D. H. Lawrence Ranch

Sunday, August 17, 2025

Georgia O’Keeffe’s Ghost Ranch Home

Friday May 16, 2025                                         Most Recent Posts:
Ghost Ranch                              Wandering Taos Part 2: Mabel Dodge Luhan
Abiquiu, New Mexico                      Wandering Taos Part 1:  The Plaza 


Aside:
I hope none of you will have to view this post on a phone.  The photographs will not be what I want you to see.  There are a lot of them.  This was perhaps the two best days of my entire trip west.  And as you may notice it has taken me over a week to go through the pictures and write this. Not to mention how far behind I already am reliving and posting this great trip.  Settle back and enjoy the landscapes of Georgia O’Keeffe.


***************************************************************************

I had first learned of Georgia O’Keeffe during one of my summers at Chautauqua in up state New York when the best biography of her by Roxana Robinson was on the CLSC book list and the author came to Chautauqua to discuss it.   I was spellbound by O’Keeffe from that moment on and a trip to her New Mexico Homes was on my bucket list for nearly 30 years.  I had just been to see her Abiquiu home which was magnificent.  See previous post here.

Today was the day I was going to visit Ghost Ranch, one of Georgia O’Keeffe’s favorite places and where she had a home for many years, her first home in New Mexico. 

It was an hour and a half from Taos so I was at the gas station by 7:15 and on the road by 7:30.  I arrived 20 minutes early for my “Walk in Georgia O’Keeffe’s Footsteps” tour.  To say I was excited is such an understatement.  If only David and Carrie and Jodee could have been with me!



Georgia O'Keeffe cottage Ghost RanchSince I was early, I went to see  the rental cottage she stayed in for several years before buying her home here.  With enough money, you can still stay in it.  Pretty sure Georgia didn’t pay prices like this.



I couldn’t figure out a way to see the inside so I just took these photos of the outside.   If only I had a friend or two or three here to split the cost of a night.


IMG_7466



IMG_7464





Susan was our guide.  Two folks were no shows so our group of 6 turned into 4.  SO NICE! 

Beth was alone like me and Kath and Steven were from England amazingly.  Nicer people you could never meet. Yes that’s an Englishman with a Cowboy hat and boots.







It was a wonderful 3 hours in some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve seen.  No wonder O’Keeffe said she had to have a house here.  Just breath taking.



IMG_7469

Susan took us in a Ghost Ranch van about a mile down the dirt road away from the Ranch’s complex of buildings. Our first stop was right beside the road.   We were stopping at spots O’Keeffe had painted..  Susan had 8x10 color photographs of the paintings which she held up and then pointed out the landscape that inspired it.



Or in this case, a single tree.

IMG_7471



It was amazing to see what O’Keeffe had included and what she had left out.   Can you see the tree?

IMG_7473



IMG_7474


Isn’t it amazing how the dry southwest heat has kept this tree almost exactly as it was then.  Although my picture is not at the same angle as the painting.



Throughout what became a 3+ mile hike down mainly arroyos we visited more and more spots O’Keeffe had painted.  And as we hiked always it seemed her favorite mountain Pedernal was in the background.   She was quoted as saying “It’s my private mountain, it belongs to me.  God told me if I painted it enough, I could have it.”  And she did.  There are 29 paintings of Pedernal.



IMG_7481



Pedernal has the flat mesa like top.

IMG_7479



IMG_7482



Most of these paintings were done in the 1930’s and 40’s but the landscape has hardly changed at all  in the 80 or 90 years since.  GOOD GRIEF – 80 or 90 years.




The sun was very bright and the reprints had plastic sleeves so I wasn’t always able to get shots that show the fullness of the colors of O’Keeffe’s art.



Nearly the same spot, totally different painting.

IMG_7497











IMG_7511




IMG_7513











In this landscape, what do you think O’Keeffe painted?   I guessed wrong.







It’s like a zoomed and cropped shot.  There is nothing of the background beyond the trees.




I love the Hoodoos in the background and that’s what I guessed. 

















I took multiple shots from different angles of this area trying to imagine what O’Keeffe would chose to paint.

IMG_7541



IMG_7542



IMG_7543



IMG_7545




IMG_7546




Doing that, I got a bit behind and had to hustle to catch up to our next stop.

IMG_7549







IMG_7551




I admit, this was a surprise to me.  I glossed right over it.  I think it was the curve.

IMG_7552



IMG_7553



  I wish I could have written down the names of all these paintings. Next on my list of books to get is one of her paintings so I can sit and look at them to my heart’s content. 


IMG_7550




IMG_7554




IMG_7559



Like O’Keeffe, I was very taken with Pedernal and took distant and zoomed shots as we continued our hike.  It was almost always visible wherever we were.


IMG_7560



IMG_7562


Near the end of our hike, we came to Georgia O’Keeffe’s Ghost Ranch Home.


IMG_7570

She had 2 homes within 12 miles of each other.  She bought the house at Ghost Ranch first.  She purchased a portion of the 21,000 acre Ghost Ranch property, including the house and 7 acres in 1940.  This was her summer home but not suitable as a year round residence.  It is very isolated and accessible only through the Ghost Ranch entrance and gravel roads but is not owned by Ghost Ranch. It has no amenities.



IMG_7568



You can barely see the ladder leaning against the back of the house a little way left of the chimney.  O’Keeffee  used this to climb up on the roof and look out over the vast landscape and at Pedernal.  


IMG_7578



Better look at the ladder.

IMG_7575




IMG_7574



This photo of the open central courtyard showing the placement of the ladder to the roof was borrowed from the web as we couldn’t get close to the house or see that side.   I know of no plans to open this home to the public.  But I surely wish they would.  I have the understanding that there hasn’t been funds to restore it properly for the traffic it would have to bear.

Georgia O'Keeffe's Ghost Ranch Home and Studio, Courtyard



Georgia O’Keeffe was also a photographer and the ladders at each of her houses were frequent subjects.

She painted Ladder to the Moon in 1958.  You can see Pedernal on the bottom edge and the moon on the top edge   That’s Beth holding the photo.





O’Keeffe painted many series of her favorite landscapes and particularly Pedernal.     Susan brought two to show us.  As I said before, she did 29 paintings of Pedernal done primarily between 1936 and 1958.





IMG_7603



IMG_7604



And a third painting







Her paintings are such vivid colors.  I wondered what time of year and what time of day, she painted.  Perhaps at Sunrise or Sunset.  Or if, as she said, she painted what she felt not just what she saw.




Without this tour, I would never have noticed this spot captured in the painting above.

This is the whole scape from our vantage point.

IMG_7608



I think  O’Keeffe must have come closer to observe the detail.  It’s amazing what captured her artist’s eye.


IMG_7610



Two more paintings of one particular area behind Susan.

IMG_7613






IMG_7614





All of these were done of the area in the background.

IMG_7620




I wondered if she ever painted the Hoodoos.  I couldn’t find the information on line.  But Georgia O’Keeffe created over 2000 artworks during her life, paintings, sketches, watercolors, pastels, sculptures and ceramics not to mention her photographs.   I need some more books.





IMG_7626



As we ended our hike and turned back toward the van, I took some shots of the color on the desert floor which I had hardly noticed so focused was I on seeing what Georgia O’Keeffe saw and painted.






IMG_7631



It was a wonderful tour, one I would take again despite the price if I am able to return.   Susan was a fantastic guide and knew the answer to every question anyone asked.   Thanks Susan.  I think I might love to do a job like yours here.


IMG_7500



I’ll close with one of my favorite pictures and quotes from one of my very favorite artists.

gok quote



This was such fantastic tour that I devoted this entire post to it.  Next post will be about the rest of the wonderful Ghost Ranch property.

Do not miss Ghost Ranch if you come to either Taos or Santa Fe.  It is more than worth the drive.


***************************************************************************

For my memory and those who are readers like me (well maybe not quite such bookaholics), here are the books I have read about Georgia O’Keeffe many of which I spent my months while traveling to and being in the west reading. 


Weekends With O’Keeffe  C.S. Merrill
A Woman on Paper: The Letters and Memoir of a Legendary Friendship Anita Pollitzer
Georgia O’Keeffe’s War Time Love Letters Amy Von Lintel
Alfred Stieglitz: An American Seer  Dorothy Normal
My Faraway One: Selected Letters of Georgia O’Keeffe and Alfred Stieglitz Volume I 1919-1933  Sarah Greenough  719 pages (haven’t finished this one yet)
Georgia O’Keeffe: She Saw the World in a Flower YA Gabrielle Salkon
Portrait of an Artist: A Biography of Georgia O’Keeffe  Louise Lisle
A Life, Georgia O’Keeffe  Roxana Robinson